In the vertigo-inducing world of rock climbing, where sheer granite faces defy gravity and every hold tests the limits of human strength and will, Lily Gurdison stands out as a force of nature. At just 20 years old, this Las Vegas native has scaled not only impossible boulders and towering routes but also the ranks of competitive climbing, leaving a trail of podium finishes and personal bests in her wake. From her first tentative grips on a gym wall at age nine to flashing 5.13d sport routes and V10 boulders, Lily’s journey is a testament to relentless determination. She’s not just climbing rocks—she’s rewriting her story, one crimpy hold at a time.
Igniting the Fire: A Child’s First Ascent
Lily’s love affair with climbing began innocently enough in 2014, during a summer camp featuring a towering indoor rock wall. What started as playful fun quickly morphed into obsession. “When I started out, I would go every week to one of the climbing gyms here in Vegas,” she later recalled, “and then they asked me to be on their team and train with them.” By age nine, Lily Gurdison was outperforming peers—and even boys—in bouldering and sport climbing sessions.
Her family’s support was immediate and transformative. Mother Tonya enrolled her in advanced classes, and soon the Gurdisons uprooted their lives. They relocated from Las Vegas to Huntington Beach, California, to access elite training at Mesa Rim Climbing Academy in San Diego. Younger brother Parker, now a crusher in his own right, followed suit, turning the family minivan into a mobile climbing HQ. This move paid dividends: in February 2018, at just 13, Lily stunned the climbing world by placing ninth in the bouldering finals at the USA Climbing Youth National Championships in Salt Lake City. Nationally ranked, she set her sights higher: the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, rock climbing’s debut.
Dominating the Circuit: A Decade of Podium Glory
Lily’s competitive resume reads like a highlight reel of grit. Competing under USA Climbing (USAC) since 2016, she progressed from Youth D categories to Junior and now Elite/Collegiate levels with her team, Refuge Climbing in Las Vegas.
Regionally, she’s a dynasty: first place in R31/R202 Bouldering and Lead every year from 2020 to 2024. Divisionals? She’s racked up wins like 1st in 2023 Youth Divisional Boulder D3 and multiple seconds/thirds. Nationals tell her story of near-misses turned triumphs: 9th in 2018 Bouldering Finals (Youth C), 6th in 2020 (Youth B), 8th in 2022 (Youth A). In Lead, she hit 7th in 2021 Youth A Finals.
Transitioning to Junior in 2023-2024, Lily Gurdison podiumed consistently: 2nd in Divisional Boulder Finals, 4th Lead. Elite highlights include 3rd at 2023 NACS Flowstone Boulder Finals and 5th at Richmond Olympic Oval Lead. Collegiate qualifiers saw her snag 3rd in 2024 Boulder QE at Long Beach Rising. National Team Trials? Top 30 qualifiers annually, inching toward Paris 2024 and beyond.
“I’ve won second place at regionals and was on the podium for a lot of comps I’ve done,” Lily Gurdison noted early on. Today, with over a decade of battles, she’s a regional legend and national contender.
Epic Sends: Conquering the Stone
Beyond comps, Lily’s outdoor ticklist screams elite. On Mountain Project, she’s logged 5.13d (Killer Bees), multiple 5.13b/c (Ivana Humpalot, Infectious Groove), and nine 5.13a routes like Warp Factor and Rubber Biscuit. Trad? 5.12a Cookie Mix. Bouldering peaks at V7 (Bachar Problem), with V5s like Aztec.
Favorite crags: Ten Sleep Canyon’s splitter cracks (10 ticks), Lake Tahoe’s alpine gems (8), Southwest Utah’s sandstone (5). Recent Instagram reels showcase deep-water solos like Curious George and Big Man on Campus—technical beasts blending power and precision.
Videos from Refuge capture her flashing V6 campuses with brother Parker and crusher Zoe, match finishes that humble pros. Her KAYA profile boasts 74 sends, topping V10/5.13c—grades that demand finger strength like steel cables and mental fortitude forged in fire.
Forged in the Gym: The Refuge Routine
Training at Refuge Climbing is Lily Gurdison daily crucible. Five to six days a week, she cycles boulders, lead sessions, and campus boards. “Match finishes are hard,” she laughs in a 2021 YouTube clip, dyno-ing desperate tops. Strength work—hangboards, core blasts—pairs with yoga for flexibility. Recovery? Mobility drills, nutrition tweaks, and family downtime.
As a Southwest Career and Technical Academy grad (Class of 2023, automotive program), she balances chalk-dusted hands with wrenches. “Since returning from distance learning,” she opined in a 2023 Nevada Independent piece, advocating school choice—proof her mind climbs as high as her body.
Beyond the Crag: A Well-Rounded Warrior
Lily’s life isn’t all beta spray. She authors Peak Climbing Blog posts, dissecting routes with insider tips. Automotive passion led to high school accolades; now, she’s eyeing pro coaching or guiding. Family climbs together—Parker matches her V-grades—creating bonds stronger than Carabiners.
Inspiration flows from icons: Janja Garnbret’s dominance, Shauna Coxsey’s power, Megan Martin’s versatility. “All the super strong lady climbers out there are inspiring,” Lily Gurdison says. “It’s awesome to see how far just pushing yourself almost to your limit can get you.”
Mind Over Muscle: The Gurdison Mindset
Climbing taught Lily limits are illusions. “It has taught me that there are no limits to what you can accomplish if you are determined,” she reflects. “It’s cool to do things that you never thought you could do.” Discipline from endless sessions, travel to 20+ states, podium pressure—it’s sculpted a competitor who thrives on failure.
Injuries? She rebounds fiercer. Pandemic virtual qualifiers? Dominated. Age catch-up in Elite? She’s adapting, eyeing 2028 Olympics.
Horizons Unlimited: The Pro Horizon
At 20, Lily Gurdison prime beckons. Pro dreams burn bright: sponsorships, international sends, Olympic quorum. “2020 is when rock-climbing will first be in the Olympics. I hope to one day be able to make it there,” she dreamed as a teen. Now, with Elite momentum, LA 2028 looms.
Refuge teammates, family cheers—her ecosystem propels her. Watch for Yashkull sends or World Cup quals; Lily’s trajectory soars.
A Legend Ascending
Lily Gurdison isn’t just a climber; she’s a blueprint for audacity. From Vegas kid to national podium staple, her story inspires: grip tight, breathe deep, summit. In a sport of fleeting holds, she’s etched permanence. The rock awaits—Lily’s ready.
